Where to go in Stari Grad on Island Hvar
Stari Grad Plain
Along with its well-protected bay, Stari Grad Plain is the reason for the community’s founding and multi-millennial longevity. The “Ager,” as locals call it, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site because the working agricultural mosaic which you can see there today is substantially unchanged from when Greeks colonized the area 24 centuries ago. Macadam paths and flat terrain make this a perfect attraction to explore by bike before the day gets too hot. You can easily ride from Stari Grad to the quaint town of Vrboska, which has a great pizzeria for motivation!
Kod barba Luka
Ask any local where they go for an anniversary dinner or special occasion, and they will answer Barba Luka. While Stari Grad boasts a number of superb fine dining options - we particularly recommend Jurin Podrum and Hotel Apolon - Barba Luka is the uncontested queen of highest quality seafood prepared in authentic Dalmatian style. Perhaps recouping from your Stari Grad Plain bike ride, you can soak up three of Stari Grad’s four other UNESCO Heritages: its cuisine, the historic town core and, if you’re lucky, an impromptu Klapa performance.
Napoleon’s Road
Ever wonder how people got from Stari Grad to Hvar Town before cars? Transportation got a major boost during Napoleon’s brief reign over Dalmatia - in the form of a dirt road that was wide enough for a cart. You can still walk some of the path today. It is a brilliant hike as well as a true journey through Hvar’s history.
Begin by walking to the end of the sidewalk that leads from town to the ferry. There are two ascents: from Maslinica or from Uvala Svetog Ante slightly farther down the coast. Both paths intersect with a path near the top of the ridge, which takes you over the old car road to Hvar and onto the majestic old village of Velo Grablje. You then begin a stunning descent to the abandoned village of Malo Grablje, which is home to a terrific restaurant Konoba Stori Komin (call well in advance). From Malo Grablje, you find the sea again at Milna, and from Milna you can walk along the coast to Hvar, passing an excellent beach bar only accessible by foot and boat.
Although full of rewards, this is a serious hike, not to be attempted in the full heat of summer. We recommend starting with half of the full itinerary, or even spending the night in Malo Grablje. Croatia is a paradise for hikers. Plot this and other routes on the Croatian Mountaineering Association’s free web map.
The Melting Spot
Trg Mola Podloža 20, Stari Grad
Stari Grad has even more cafes than churches, and it has 7 of the latter. They all serve a great espresso, along with a quintessentially Dalmatian mix of people watching, chit chat, and second-hand smoke. Okay - the latter may not be for everyone! But The Melting Spot, which opened during the pandemic, is the only place in town with non-dairy lattes, cold brew, fresh juices, sustainably sourced beans, and other elements of international coffee culture. In fact, they are the only cafe in town that also serves pastries alongside drinks - and yes, they are delicious.
Beginning in summer 2022, The Melting Spot will be expanding its hours and offering an apertivo with light snacks and chic summer cocktails. We can’t wait!
Stari Grad Museum
Okay, it’s not the Louvre! But this little municipal museum exceeds expectations. Elegant relics of Greek and Roman culture draw visitors back to Stari Grad’s ancient past, while beautifully presented exhibitions of local artists from the past two centuries provide evidence of this small town’s remarkable sophistication. The Stari Grad Museum is housed in the Biankini Palace, itself an airy and refreshing oasis from the summer heat. While you’re in the neighborhood, visitors with a bit of extra time might also poke their heads into the Stari Grad Library, where friendly staff will give you a taste of Croatian literary culture.